Youtube, megaships, importance of weight of chain

Quote Rocna "Catenary is a word which appears frequently in articles and books on the topic of anchoring. It is a mathematical term which describes the shape of a flexible line (like chain) hung between two points (like the bow of your boat and the seabed, or the anchor). Heavier chain means that it takes more force to straighten the rode, so the catenary curve remains more pronounced which in turn keeps the angle of pull on the anchor lower than otherwise (which is beneficial to the ultimate performance of the anchor). Scope on the other hand is the ratio between the length of rode deployed and the distance the boat is from the seabed (the height from the seabed to the bow-roller or hawse-pipe, not just depth). By way of simple trigonometry, it is obvious that for a constant depth, a longer rode (greater scope) will present a lower angle of pull on the anchor." Scope and catenary are accordingly the only two methods by which a skipper can assist the anchor by providing it with a pull which is as close as possible to horizontal. The lower this angle, the better. Traditionally, heavy chain has been recommended to provide the 'all important' catenary. In the past of big ships and their anchors, this had a good basis. Modern anchors and small boats however change this picture.

Limits of catenary The problem with catenary is that it does not really provide that much assistance. While the force required to pull a length of chain bar tight is extremely high, the force required to straighten out most of its curve is actually relatively low. We can easily demonstrate this by using a static computer simulation.

Simulating moderate winds of 20 knots, the catenary curve is obvious and the angle of pull on the anchor is clearly lowered. 20 knots of wind however is unlikely to trouble an adequately sized anchor in most sea-beds.

Simulating more testing winds of 50 knots, the catenary curve has all but disappeared. The chain is nearly straight and the angle of pull on the anchor is not being improved by the weight of the chain.

Quote Rocna, "The practical consequence of this is that it is not necessary to carry heavy chain merely for the sake of it. Rather, chain can and should be as light as possible, subject to strength requirements. Many boats could lose a large amount of weight by swapping to a lighter but stronger chain, and then investing part of that weight back into a larger anchor. Performance (holding power) of the system is thus substantially improved, while total weight is actually lowered. Find more, including recommendations for chain sizes, in the chain section."

Quote Rocna" Scope ratios A 3:1 ratio of rode-length to water-depth should be considered minimal ("1" being the vertical distance from the seabed to the bow roller, not the waterline, at high tide). Generally speaking about 5:1 is appropriate. Typically you should set the anchor at the same scope it will be left at, in order to be sure the anchor can re-set itself again should it pull out. However, it may be necessary to set it at a higher scope and then pull in some of the rode. In bad conditions, the ratio can be increased up to around 8:1. There is little benefit in going beyond this point, and boaters using scopes of 10:1 and higher are gaining almost nothing from their efforts and huge swinging circles. At 8:1, the maximum angle of pull on the anchor is already capped at just over 7°, and of course the scope must be doubled in order to halve the angle (i.e, even very large increases in the scope result in angle reductions of only several degrees). Considering the desire to lower the angle against the practical problem of longer rodes and increased swinging circles, 8:1 is roughly the 'sweet spot'.

Quote Rocna "Catenary in deeper water. The rode's catenary effect on holding power is determined by the amount of chain and/or rope suspended between the boat and the seabed, so the need for a high ratio decreases with increasing depth, as shown in the graph below. In other words, in deep water, catenary does start to have a practical impact."

From Coastalboating.net
"Scope Most people consider a 5:1 ratio (scope) rode/depth to be the minimum scope for safe anchoring under moderate conditions. We usually go for a 7:1 scope with our all chain rode, more if we are expecting stronger winds. More scope is always better. When calculating the scope, the 'depth' is the height of the bow over the bottom, taking the tide height into consideration. Keep in mind that your depth sounder may be giving you the water depth under your keel. In this case you also need to add in the offset as well. In a tight anchorage, as in our example in Tinker's Hole, you may not be able to let out as much rode as you might like. In this case you will need to weigh your options and see what is best for you and your vessel. With the very settled conditions we experienced there, we decided that 3-1 should suffice. With our scoop type anchor down, we initially let out enough for a 5-1 scope, power set the anchor, and then brought the rode back in to a 3-1 ratio. With less rode, say at 2-1, even our scoop type anchor may have pulled out, while power setting or had there been an increase in wind speed. To ensure that the wave action does not loosen your anchor's hold on the bottom if you have an all-chain rode, you should use a long snubber to absorb any shock loads caused by wave action. A long stretchy rope (nylon) of sufficient diameter will do here. This will stretch in and out over the bow roller as waves pass under your boat. Irrespective of what type of anchor you deploy, the holding power of your anchor is greatly reduced with any reduction in scope. If you have to drop anchor in a crowded anchorage with deep water on short scope, setting anchor watch may consequently be a wise option.

The Right Gear No discussion on anchoring is complete without at least a mention of anchor tackle. You will have noted that in the preceding illustration the chain is not bowed. In high wind situations, any rode, chain or rope, even with a heavy kellet or chum, will go bar taut. Catenary only applies to light wind situations, where it is least needed. When considering tackle selection, one must always go out from the worst case scenario - after all, your life is depending on it. Having stated that, in consistent light wind conditions, using an all-chain rode or deploying a heavy kellet towards the bottom of an all rope rode will allow you to hang off your chain or kellet and work with a very short scope of rode. However, should conditions change in the night, which is when bad things always tend to happen, then you could find yourself in some serious trouble. All anchors are not created equal. By their very design, some anchors are meant to plough, and others to drag, perhaps to minimise strain on the deck hardware. Given sufficient scope, the newer generation scoop type anchors dig deeper and hold better as the pull on the rode increases; this happens when you power set the anchor or when the wind increases. Scoop types are by and large also designed with larger blades and a greater angle between fluke and shank to facilitate this even better. In general, most of the new generation scoop anchors deliver superior holding at shorter scope than the older anchors can. Small wonder then, that whereas about 80% of Ocean Cruising Club members reported having a CQR as their bower just a few years ago, a more recent survey revealed that nearly 90% now have a scoop type as their primary.

Setting Two Anchors In very tight anchorages, or if anchoring in close proximity of a permanent mooring field, you may wish to consider setting two anchors from the bow, in opposite directions. This is known as a Bahamian Moor. This method of anchoring completely minimizes your boat's swing radius. Permanent moorings tend to have very heavy weights or other devices to firmly attach to the sea bed. They may thus have very short scope, often verging on less than 2-1. However anchoring in or very close to a mooring field is generally not recommended, as there is often legacy tackle littering the sea bed that may snag your anchor. If considering using a Bahamian Moor in a tight anchorage, ensure that the other boats have done the same. If not, they might most assuredly swing into yours.

Bahamian moor - if your secondary anchor has a rope rode, remember to add a small kellet to keep it away from your keel If the anchorage is 'tight' due to lack of space, being on the edge of a channel or something similar, you might also consider a bow and stern configuration. This will maintain the position of your boat very tightly. Your boat will not swing into the channel, but it also will not swing with wind or current. This could potentially expose the stern to unintended forces; remember that a boat is designed to receive wave action from the bow and not from the stern.

Bow and stern anchoring fixes your boat's position, and is most useful in really tight situations like in a creek, or along the edge of a channel. In some places this is used to anchor close to steep cliffs. In either of these two cases, you may begin by dropping and securely setting your primary anchor. You can then let out more than twice the necessary rode, while backing down to where you would like to position the secondary anchor, deploy this and bring in the primary rode, while paying out the secondary. To set the latter, gently motor forward and then adjust both rodes to allow for the tide, etc. For use as a secondary anchor, we keep a lightweight aluminium fluke anchor (Fortress) on board. Although quite large when assembled, it can easily be loaded into our dinghy and deployed without having to try to manoeuvre our (big) boat. We have a full length of nylon rope rode for our secondary anchor and can let out as much as we please to set it before winching it back in to position our boat where we have chosen."

Small Motorsailers

IP 23 motor sailer (left) and IP 24 right, example with in-mast reefing. Many variations exist due to differences in fitting out at home, some also have extended keels.

Husky 24ft motor sailer (left) with canopy and right with rigid wheel shelter

Kent Class motor sailer (left) has toilet compartment on stbd side; Kent MK II has toilet compartment on port side, also differing cockpit arrangements and MKII often have additional bilge keels

Kent Class motor sailer (left) has toilet compartment on stbd side; Kent MK II brochure (right) has toilet compartment on port side.

   
        Kent G class plan                                                                        Kent Mark II plan
Kent G Class motor sailer (left) has toilet compartment on stbd side; designed dimensions length 25ft 6ins, beam 8ft 2ins draught 3ft.    Kent MK II (right) has toilet compartment on port side and different cockpit layout. Designed length 27ft 0ins, beam 8ft 8ins draught 3ft 2ins

Sunspeed27

   
          colvic watson 23,                                        colvic watson 23 plan

colvic watson 26,                                            colvic watson 28ft 6ins                               colvic Watson 28ft 6ins

fisher 25,                                            fisher 30 wheelhouse,          fisher 30 wheelhouse with screens

       
Seadog 30                                                          Claymore 30ft                                                        Marcon Claymore layout plan

Hurley 9.5 LOA 9.34m (30ft 7ins)                      Hurley Meridian 31                   

and a selection of other Hurley 9.5 motorsailers ... where are they now ....

Hurley 9.5 "Hurley Maid"                        Hurley 9.5 Conway                 Hurley 9.5 Malta

Hurley 9.5 Lancashire                                   Hurley 9.5 Essex                            Hurley 9.5 Poole

Hurley 9.5 Blue Suki                              Hurley 9.5 Preston                       Hurley 9.5 Isle of Wight

Hurley 9.5 Milford Haven                                   Hurley 9.5                            Hurley 9.5 Lancashire

Hurley 9.5 sailing                        Hurley 9.5 with triple keel Cumbria       Hurley 9.5 Caraventure, triple keel, Southampton

Hurley 9.5 Silkie II Roseneath

Hurley 9.5 Accolade II

Hurley 9.5 "Accolade II" galley and saloon

   
Hurley 9.5 LOA 9.34m (30'7") plan                                                          Hurley Meridian 31 plan
The Hurley Meridian 31 has a different layout to the Hurley 9.5 having a regular saloon and two forward bunks whilst the Hurley 9.5 has a larger galley and saloon occupying the entire forward section in place of the usual forward bunks

Hurley owners association

Hurley 9.5 "Accolade II" layout plan

Hurley 9.5 "Accolade II"

Hurley 9.5 Accolade II ashore

motorsailer selection with photos

Marine toilet, TMC (Taiwan Manufacturing Company).
Sooner or later, your marine toilet will break down. The two most common possibilites, (a) won't flush and (b) won't pump. i.e. blocked.
When won't flush, the handle just slides up and down and the pumping water doesn't "take", there is a tiny spring operating a valve inside a housing at the rear of the toilet. After about 8 mnths this spring breaks due to corrosion. A replacement repair pack to obtain the spring would be, if I remember, about 80 euros. However I found a compression spring by Eliza Tinsley, 1 and 3/8" x ¼" x 0.20 does the trick when cut down to length of 1", cost was around 80 pence from McKays ironmongers in Cambridge or online.

As to blocked, assuming someone has not put excess paper, tea leaves or other objects down the toilet, the most common cause seems to be an accumulation of a guano or concrete-like material building up, often in the elbow bend at the outlet from the toilet or even the entire length of the discharge tube. This can be scraped out of the elbow with a screwdriver, similarly it could be dislodged from the tubing with a screwdriver but most simple plan is to replace the tubing. Stains on the bowl can be removed by soaking in vinegar and seems a good plan to pump through and fill the bowl with vinegar periodically and leave to soak in vinegar for example if leaving the boat for a few days. Seems to also help when opening your tinned sardines to pour the oil into the toilet to keep the parts lubricated!

Junk Sail

voyage of the junk, dragon king

lateen sail
Lateen sail (modern) tacking

Square sails rigs
east coast old gaffers

fens waterways
east coast offshoreyachting
canals
tide tables uk
Royal Yachting Association
OSTAR history
CruiseNews reviews of equipment, products and designs including rigs
sailnet advice electrical systems etc

vintage sewing guide
knots, splices, ropework
Tarpaulins Direct (Bradshaws)
DIY plastics, canopies

Spray built by Joshua Slocum

Spray, good self steering qualities due to long keel, with oars (right)

Spray building plans, original length 39ft 6ins, beam 14ft 2ins

Liberdade built originally by Joshua Slocum and modern copy

Allen Farrel's China Cloud, recommended viewing

Thames barge rig

Thames barge rig self steering sail on rudder or tiller

Thames barge rig self steering sail sheeted to rudder.

selfsteering sheet to tiller
selfsteering by john ward
selfsteering by oarclub
selfsteering sheet to tiller how it works
selfsteering basics

Newfoundland dory as carried aboard Portuguese mother ship

interior of Newfoundland dory.

free dinghy, dory and skiff plans
free pram dinghy plans, this uses 8 ft side panels

stitch and glue guide

nestaway boats

15½ ft dory plans (known as 12ft dory because floorboards were originally 12ft.)

row or sail dory in traditional wood

Gavin Atkins apple pie 7ft pram dinghy

1 sheet skiff

thai longtail

plans for building Jules Verne's (Disney) Nautilus

building Jules Verne's (Disney) Nautilus
disney nautilus

Gone Fishing
Gone Fishing, fishermans toolbox and fishfinders

Calor gas bottles

Spanish gas bottles

Camping gaz bottles

Conversion tables

Breaking Strain Examples... "Strength: 18KN" = 1800 daN = approx 1800 kg
"Breaking strain 1800 daN" = 18 kN = approx 1800 kg
"Breaking strain 2000 daN" = 20 kN = approx 2000 kg
"Breaking load 2500 kg" = approx 25 kN = 2500 daN
"Breaking strain > 2500 daN" = 25 kN = approx 2500 kg
"Guaranteed load 26 kN" = 2600 daN = approx 2600 kg
"Breaking load 32 kN" = 3200 daN = approx 3200 kg
"Breaking strength 40 kN" = 4000 daN = approx 4000 kg

American Wire Gauge

Blue Sea Systems, choosing correct wire size
Note: the distance is the distance to the device eg pump or stereo and back again.

Wire Amps

Wire Guage

Wire 12 volts

Wire 24 volts

Thin wires provide more resistance, they are cheaper to buy, less bulky and good for non-critical things on board. They have a “high voltage drop”.
Thicker wires are heavier and more expensive. They allow more current to flow through and are good for critical items. They have a “low voltage drop”.
“So what on earth is voltage drop?” I hear you ask. Good question! I was wondering the same thing too. Well it means that some of the voltage that is coming out of the battery gets lost along the way around the circuit. Be it through the wire itself, or to other things that it is connected to.
The line along the top it talks about current flow in amps. You need to figure out what power your stereo needs. A quick google search suggests a stereo might draw around 6amps.
Then you need to think about how far the wire has to travel – from the battery/fuse board, up to the stereo and then back to the fuse board again.
So we look along the top line to find 6 amps (somewhere between 5 & 10) and then down the non-critical line to how long our wire is going to be – in our case 5 metres (so somewhere between 0-20ft) and you can see we will need a size #16 AWG wire (AWG stands for American Wire Gauge) The little table on the far left hand size then translates the American size in to metric if needed.
So now you can go out and buy your wire – remember to get marine grade – tinned copper wire. (See Astrolabe Sailing Marine electronics)

12 volt planet online voltage drop calculator

Electrical wire colour coding ac mains

 
Electrical wire colour coding

Electrical 12 volt colour coding (USA old standard)

Electrical 12 volt colour coding USA AYBC )

12 volt Standards (UK?)

12 volt USA Standards (Marinco)

Pacific Yacht Systems seminar ABYC Standards (USA)

conversion weights link
16ozs = 1lb
1 pound = 0.4536kilos
1 kilo = 2.2046lbs
14lbs = 1 stone
1cwt = 112lbs
1 short ton = 2,000 lbs = 0.907 tonne
1 long ton = 20 cwts = 2240 lbs = 1.016 tonnes
1 tonne (metric ton) = 1,000 kg = 0.984 (long) ton = 2204.16 lbs

The tonne or metric ton is a metric system unit of mass equal to 1,000 kilograms (2,204.6 pounds) or 1 megagram (1 Mg)
Before metrication in the UK the unit used for most purposes was the Imperial ton of 2,240 pounds avoirdupois (usually referred to as the long ton in the US), equivalent to 1,016 kg, differing by just 1.6% from the tonne.

28 cubic inches defines 1 modern pound (lb) of water
1 pint = 4 x 4 x 5 digits = 33.75 cu ins (old historical pint = 4 x 4 x 4 digits or 3 x 3 x 3 inches = 27cu ins and when filled with water defined 1lb)
1 pint weighs 1.25lbs
1 gallon imperial = 10lbs of water = 4.54609 litres (about 277.42 cubic inches)
therefore, 10 gals = 45.4 litres, 20 gals = 90 litres, 50 gals = 227 litres.
1 litre = 0.22 gals, 10 litres = 2.2 gals, 20 litres = 4.4 gals 30 litres = 6.6 gals 50 litres = 11 gals 80 litres = 17.6 gals.

A US liquid gallon of water = 8.34 pounds = 3.785 litres (231 cubic inches) or 3.78 kilograms making it about 16.6% lighter than the imperial gallon.
the US dry gallon defined as 4.405 litres (1/8 US bushel of 2150.42 cubic inches); it is therefore equal to exactly 268.8025 cubic inches or about 4.405 L.
Both the US liquid and imperial gallon are divided into four quarts, eight pints, sixteen cups or thirty-two gills. The imperial gill is further divided into five fluid ounces, whereas the US gill is divided into four fluid ounces. Thus an imperial fluid ounce is 1/20 of an imperial pint or 1/160 of an imperial gallon, while a US fluid ounce is 1/16 of a US pint or 1/128 of a US gallon. The imperial gallon, quart, pint, cup and gill are approximately 20% larger than their US counterparts and are therefore not interchangeable. The imperial fluid ounce, on the other hand, is only 4% smaller than the US fluid ounce and therefore they are often used interchangeably.

The Imperial pint = 568 ml = 20 Imperial fluid ounces = about 20% larger than USA pint, therefore 1 Imperial fluid ounce = 28.4 ml
The Imperial pint = 568.26125 millilitres (exactly)
The Imperial pint = 34.677429099 cubic inches
The Imperial pint = 1.2009499255 US liquid pints
The Imperial pint = 1.0320567435 US dry pints
Imperial fluid ounce = 28.4 ml about 4% smaller than the US fluid ounce of 29.5625 ml
USA liquid pint = 473 ml = 16 US fluid ounces, therefore 1 US fluid ounce = 29.5625 ml
1 US liquid pint = 1/8 US liquid gallon
1 US liquid pint = 1/2 US liquid quart
1 US liquid pint = 2 US cups
1 US liquid pint = 4 US fluid gills
1 US liquid pint = 16 US fluid ounces
1 US liquid pint = 128 US fluid drams
1 US liquid pint = 28.875 cubic inches (exactly)
1 US liquid pint = 473.176473 millilitres (exactly)
1 US liquid pint ˜ 0.83267418463 imperial pints
1 US liquid pint ˜ 0.85936700738 US dry pints
1 US liquid pint ˜ the volume of 1.041 lb (472 g) of water at 62 °F (16.7 °C)
USA dry pint = 551 ml
1 US dry pint = 1/8 US dry gallons
1 USA dry pint = 1/2 US dry quarts
1 USA dry pint = 33.6003125 cubic inches (exactly)
1 USA dry pint = 550.6104713575 millilitres (exactly)[8] ˜ 551 ml
1 USA dry pint = 0.96893897192 imperial pints
1 USA dry pint = 1.1636471861 US liquid pints

1 pint is about just over half a litre or half a litre is just under 1 pint.

1 cubic inch = 16.4cc
1 pint = 0.56825 litres
half pint = 284 ml
300 ml = 0.53 pints
1 gallon = 4.546 litres (8 pints)
1 litre = 1.7598 pints
1 litre (of water) weighs 2.12lbs
1 litre (of water) weighs 1 kilo
A cubic metre of water weighs a metric tonne
1 gallon = 0.1605 cu ft
1cu ft = 6.2 gals = 62.137lbs

cylinder volume calculator
formula to find volume = 3.14159 x radius squared x Height

diesel = 8lb gallon
water = 10lb gallon
Gasoline = 42lbs/cu ft
Diesel = 49.6 lb/cu.ft
Fresh water = 62.3 lb /cu.ft
Sea Water = 62.8 lb/cu ft
Pitch = 69lbs/cu ft
Asphalt = 156lbs/cu ft (bitumen)
Fibreglass = 95-115 lbs/cu ft
Concrete 2 sand, 1 cement = 138lbs/cu ft
3 x 3 x 3" cube of gasoline weighs 0.65lbs
3 x 3 x 3" cube of fresh water weighs 0.97lb
3 x 3 x 3" cube of sea water weighs 0.98lb
3 x 3 x 3" cube of diesel weighs 0.775lbs
3 x 3 x 3" cube of cast iron weighs 7.1lbs
3 x 3 x 3" cube of copper weighs 8.6lbs
3 x 3 x 3" cube of lead weighs 11.1lbs

Cement - Roman Cement…Roast Limestone = lime + water = paste add sand and aggregated rock + volcanic ash ideally
ferro cement = 2 parts sand and 1 part cement
water ratio
5 x 5 x 5" cube of mix needs 2.08 pints of water
8 x 8 x 8" cube of mix needs 1 gallon of water
1 foot cube of mix needs 3.458 gals of water
121.5mm cube of mix needs 1 litre of water
300mm cube of mix needs 15 litres of water

bitumen pitch oil recipe for reed boats

Area - Cabin Top say 9ft x 6ft = 54sq ft of
¼" steel = 550 lbs = 4.9cwt
4mm steel = 347 lbs
1/8" steel = 275lbs = 2.45cwt
30mm ply =347lbs
½" pine scots = 70.2lbs
½" pine white = 58.32lbs
½" foam = 5.4lbs
1/8" fibreglass = 54lbs
½"ply + grp = 201lbs
pine scots + grp = 124.2lbs
foam + grp = 59.4lbs

Area
½"pitch = 2.87bs sq ft
½"asphalt = 6.5lbs sq ft
½"concrete = 6.25lbs sq ft
½"ply = 2.72lbs sq ft
½"Ash = 1.91lbs sq ft
½"Balsa = 0.41lbs sq ft
½"Cork = 0.66lbs sq ft
½"Fir = 1.25lbs sq ft
½"Larch = 1.58lbs sq ft
½"Oak = 2.2 lbs sq ft
½"Scots pine = 1.33 lbs sq ft
½"Pine, white = 1.08lbs sq ft
½"Pine, yellow = 1.8lbs sq ft
½"Spruce = 1.25lbs sq ft
½"fibreglass = 4.5lbs sq ft
½"aluminium = 7lbs sq ft
½"steel = 20lbs sq ft
¼" steel = 10lbs sq ft
4mm steel = 6.425lbs sq ft
5mm steel =8lbs/sq ft
1/8" steel = 5lbs sq ft
1/8" aluminium = 1.75lbs sq ft
1/8" fibreglass = 1lb sq ft
30mm ply =6.426lbs sq ft

volume, area conversions

A UK allotment was originally 10 poles of 16.5ft x 1 pole of 16.5ft ie. 165ft x 16.5ft (100 Sumerian cubits x 10 Sumerian cubits) and today the equivalent is 250 sq metres, said to be enough to feed a family of 4

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printable calendars

The fact that the solar year (of nearly 365 1/4 days) does not contain an exact number of days or of lunar months caused much trouble in keeping the calendar accurate. Before Caesar's time the method adopted was to reckon twelve lunar months (of 291/2 days to the year, and from time to time to insert an additional or thirteenth month to balance things. Through negligence, however, the official calendar was now two or three months ahead of the sun so that the spring equinox came in June. Caesar introduced the custom of regulating the year by the sun, not by the moon, and gave to each year 36 days, with an additional day inserted every fourth year. He also shifted the official beginning of hte year to January from march, where previous custom had placed it. In his honour the month of his birthday, hitherto called Quintillis, was renamed Julius (July). Similarly the next month , Sextilis, was later renamed after his successor, the emperor augustus.
(The story of Greece and Rome, J.C. Robertson and H.G. Robertson, Dent, London)

Meso American calendar. (a) a 260 day ritual calendar divided with n confirmed relation to astronomical or agricultural cycles. (though some say it was related to an agricultural cycle of the Maya based on the rising and setting of certain stars.) (b) 365 day calendar divided into 18 month sof 20 days (+ 5 nameless days) (c) these two calendars could be synchronised to make the Calendar Round, a period of 18980 days (52 x 365) (d) long count developed 200 - 900 A.D. = total count of days.

Tiwanaku calendar, 20 months of 18 days which meshed with lunar siderial months of 27.32 days so every 20 Inca years of 12 lunar siderial months meshed with 18 solar years. . see Tiwanaku calendar

Jim Reeves the Blizzard
Diva Fifth Element
Rigoletto
vita Lucia de Lammermoor il dolce suono
Sumi Jo Lucia de Lammermoor mad scene
Sumi Jo Lucia de Lammermoor 2 the same?
Anna Veleva Lucia de Lammermoor il dolce suono
Maria callas Lucia de Lammermoor
Sumi Jo Verdi
Sumi Jo Delibes
Sumi Jo Merry Widow
Sumi Jo Vivaldi
Sumi Jo Bellini Elvira's mad scene
Sumi Jo o mio babbino caro
Sumi Jo Mozart

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Green Home Building
lightweight concrete pumicecrete
papercrete

Property Spain
escape 2 balearics property search
escape 2 spain property search
estate agents in Mallorca

think spain property search      Spanish resales      property in spain, good ibiza      think spain jobs

property in Bolivia     property in France           escapes2 by country   Escape Artist.com

Agrarian justice

Single Parent Home Buying Guide by TheMortgageReports.com (USA)
First Time Home Buyers Guide by TheMortgageReports.com (USA)
First-Time Home Buyers Guide: Buying With Student Loans And Debt by TheMortgageReports.com (USA)
First-Time Home Buyer's Guide: Making A Downpayment (USA)

online dictionary reviews

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Potatoes: English names for a vegetable from the great South American continent
fish and chips chip shop method
fish and chips home method
fish and chips parboil method

To convert Fahrenheit to Celcius subtract 32 and multiply by .5556
To convert Celcius to Fahrenheit multiply by 1.8 and add 32

Many chefs recommend cooking the chips in two stages and even putting in a fridge between stages, but professional English chip shops only fry once, eg., 6 minutes at 186ºC (366ºF), the temperature drops when chips put in but as is large professional cooker, the temperature recovers quickly. Another with Turkish chef and smaller professional cooker was using 200ºC (392ºF).
Editor's note, some experts consider 400°F(200°C) too high a temperature as it could be dangerous and recommend 375°F (190°C) for the first minute or so and then lowering it to 250°F (120°C) for the remainder of the cooking time.

Chips shallow fry method, use Marie Piper, King Edward's or Holland potatoes, peel and cut into chip sizes. Rinse vigorously in bowl of cold water, ideally under cold running water to get rid of starch, but not so practical on yacht. Bring water to boil, simmer 15 mins put on paper towel to dry, then fry in shallow pan, or in very shallow oil, or just a little oil and butter mixture depending on if pan non stick, drain on paper towels or some people prefer on a rack. But if adding eggs, tomatoes etc best to use just thin layer of oil and turn ie sautee potatoes. Small electric hotplate on shore power good for simmering but not so good for frying as not hot enough and keeps switching itself off and on, in this respect gas even small camping gas stove is better.
Deep fry my method Cut into chip sizes, boil/simmer 12 minutes in salted water, i.e 12 minutes from moment chips go into water, the temperature drops then recovers, remove chips let dry off on paper towels then drop into oil at 350ºF, or better 375ºF, if electric stove can turn off electric as keeps cooking since plate remains hot, after 10 minutes in iron pan came out nice golden brown, with new more conductive square pan only needed 6 minutes, 10 minutes would have been burned. Came out great and again, the gas was better for frying than the electric.

Spicy Kentucky style chicken
Some video recommends cooking the chicken first as this ensures it is cooked before frying. The Dharbar method recommends marinating in spicy water. By accident, I simmered the chicken in water left over from day before which had been highly spiced with curry powder. It came out great, like tandoori chicken.
Deep fry method ….first spiced up the chicken then put in pan of boiling water, simmered 10 minutes then turned off electric, kept cooking as stove top stays hot a while target was 15 minutes simmering as small pieces, then left to cool down and left marinated in its spicy water for 4 hours. Removed chicken and rolled in bag of flour, then in egg/milk wash, then in flour again. Then heated oil in pan to 365ºF, dropped in chicken pieces, turned off heat for safety and deepfried for 10 minutes, Was absolutely delicious, juicy in centre also added Italian seasoning at end but could do in between egg washes or mix in with the flour.
The other two pieces I shallow fried in hardly any oil in non stick pan but was cold in centre as had cooled down whilst marinating, I also tried reverse method, first spice and marinate 4 hours, then simmer 15 minutes then continue as before probably better for shallow frying this way but seemed not as good as first method, was drier.

Deep fry my method (1) Cut into chip sizes, boil/simmer 12 minutes in salted water, i.e 12 minutes from the moment you put into the boiling water, the temperature drops, leave to come back to boiling then turn down to simmer. Remove let dry off on paper towels then drop into oil at 350ºF, if electric stove can turn off electric as keeps cooking since plate remains hot, but better with gas as electric takes ages to reach temperature. After 10 minutes in older iron pot nice golden brown came out great but with new conductive square pot, only needed 6 minutes, could be 8 minutes max. 10 minutes would be burned. Also used spicy flour mix for some.
Editor's note, some experts consider 400°F(200°C) too high a temperature as it could be dangerous and recommend 375°F (190°C) for the first minute or so and then lowering it to 250°F (120°C) for the remainder of the cooking time.

Gorden Ramsay marinates in buttermilk and dips in buttermilk before flour No 1 and 2, that way no messy eggs and using the same milk he marinated in.
I simmered chicken 12 minutes then immersed in bowl of milk with juice of one lemon, chopped onion, spices, left to marinate, simmered chips 12 minutes. Removed the chicken from the milk, dipped in spicy flour, then milk, then flour and fried 6 to 8 minutes, came out great, light golden, the second batch was only single dipped but still adequately thick coating.
Was huge bowl of milky stuff left over, might be good if had a fridge as is similar to Raita, in fact when cold was delicious later!
Gas hotter than the electric and camping gas hotter than the yacht's stove gas.

Home made Chip Shop style deep fried fish:
English/USA chef. 1 cup flour, salt and pepper, 1 cup beer, mix in equivalent of ale or pilsner, allow batter to rest one hour. Egg optional. (Others salt the fish to help dry it, shake off salt, otherwise becomes very salty). Dip fish in flour then in the batter, shake off excess, lower into oil. 350F, cook 6-8 minutes, turn once.
Some add tumeric to the flour/batter to give golden colour, also half teaspoon baking powder.

It's hard to measure the boiling point of oil. The reason is that well before it reaches its boiling point, oil will start to smoke. This is called the 'smoke point'. The smoke points for some common cooking oils are here:
Safflower - 266° C (510° F)
Soybean - 257° C (495° F) boils at 300ºC (572ºF)
Corn - 246° C (475° F)
Sunflower 232°C (450°F)
Peanut - 227° C (440° F)
Sesame - 216° C (420° F)
Olive - 191° C (375° F)

How to cook quinoa (youtube) wonder food of the Andes

Temperature to serve:
Lager 42-48°F (6-9°C)
American Pale Ale 45-50°F (7-10°C)
Real Ale, Cask Ale 50-55°F (10-12.8°C)
Ale in UK 54°F (12°C)

Red wine the books used to say open and leave to aquire room temperature,
however in Barcelona the cheap red wine served with the daily menu is slightly chilled in fridge temperature,
some people suggest 60-70°F (15-21°C),
wineware.co.uk suggest 54-64°F (12-18°C)
and
Vintage Port 66°F 19°C
Bordeaux, Shiraz 64°F 18°C
Red Burgundy, Cabernet 63°F 17°C
Rioja, Pinot Noir 61°F 16°C
Chianti, Zinfandel 59°F 15°C
Tawny/NV Port 57°F 14°C
Beaujolais, Rosé 54°F 12°C
Viognier, Sauternes 52°F 11°C
Chardonnay 48°F 9°C
Riesling 47°F 8°C
Champagne, Sparkling Wine, Dessert Wine *Tip - Champagne is best served and enjoyed chilled 45°F 7°C

Alcohol addiction     
Where to Find     

"Two Steps to Freedom"
An alcoholic's Road to Recovery by Ivan Drinktoomuch.
Published by J.M. Allen
available in paperback from Amazon
also in Kindle.

Places of Peace and Power

Atlantis in the Andes (documentary film)

libraria boliviana

Grupo Tomo Spanish edition in Mexico

Atlantis Rising Issue 28 Atlantis in the Andes

Atlantis the Lost Empire

Robert Lenkiewicz, painter   Robert Lenkiewicz, in Wiki

ron miller black cat studios

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Books by J.M. Allen

Atlantis: the Andes Solution - the theory - from atlantisbolivia.org bookstore

"The Atlantis Trail" - the Expeditions - from atlantisbolivia.org bookstore

"Atlantis: Lost Kingdom of the Andes" - the findings at Pampa Aullagas
published by Createspace

New 2012, Book 4
Atlantis and the Persian Empire
from atlantisbolivia.org bookstore

"Tiwanaku - a city lost in time" -
collection of historic photos and drawings of Tiwanaku
along with analysis of the calendar and system of cubits
available in paperback from Amazon, colour edition.
available in paperback from Amazon, black and white edition.

Decoding Ezekiel's Temple
available in paperback from Amazon

"Easiread System of Musical Notation"
Learn to play the piano or keyboard with a simplified music system
Now available through Amazon

"Liveaboard Life at Home and Abroad"
Author's account of living on boats in England and Spain.
available in paperback from Amazon

"Sailing to Atlantis and Liveaboard Life"
Youtube channel.

Visit the bookstore for Atlantis and other publications by J.M. Allen

Art Gallery paintings by J.M.Allen

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atlantisbolivia.org

e-mail address webatlantis@hotmail.com